Your donations are greatly appreciated. We are a non-profit organization and your donation is tax deductible. By donating to the Humane Society of the Pikes Peak Region, you are helping us fulfill our mission to prevent animal cruelty and neglect and to develop a responsible community where animals and people live in harmony. Your donation assists our Humane Education program, Lost and Found, spay and neuter programs, foster care and our pet adoption program. Thanks to the support of many individuals, contracts and fees, the Humane Society is able to make a huge difference in the lives of those who cannot speak for themselves, our pets.

We will not sell or trade a donor’s personal information to any other entity in existence without their written permission.

Giving does make a Difference:
We appreciate any amount that a person can give. Every bit helps us help the animals in our community.

Second – Complete a “Volunteer Information Form” and interview, one-on-one, with the Director of Volunteer Programs to discuss your personal goals and determine the most suitable volunteer assignment for you.

Third – Attend a brief Volunteer Orientation and Training Session designed to prepare you for your job as a volunteer.

Age Requirements
The minimum age for a few jobs is 12 years old. More jobs are available to 14-18 year-olds. All volunteers between the ages of 12 and 17 must be accompanied by an adult of his or her own choosing. The minimum age for each job is listed with the job description on the Volunteer Opportunities page.

Our volunteers enjoy helping animals, people and their community. They help homeless animals by making them feel better during their stay at the shelter (by walking them, teaching them the basic manners necessary for people to want to adopt them, bathing and grooming them, and cuddling them). They help them find good homes (by introducing animals to potential adopters). They help people by assisting them in finding their lost pets, and by helping them find a companion animal that is appropriate for their lifestyle.

They help their community by educating children (and adults) about responsible pet ownership and kindness to animals. They take shelter animals (dogs, cats, rabbits and guinea pigs) to visit elderly or sick people in hospitals and nursing and assisted-living homes, and to schools and facilities for mentally, emotionally or physically-challenged children. Volunteers help advertise homeless animals for adoption on local television and radio stations and in the newspaper.

Volunteers also assist at many special Humane Society community and fund-raising events. Some volunteers (members of our Board of Directors) help to set shelter policies.

In an average year, our volunteers contribute over 25,000 hours in support of the approximate 22,000 lost and unwanted animals that come through the shelter doors. Please consider joining our team of friendly volunteers. You, too, will enjoy the experience! The next page explains how to become a volunteer.

DOGS WITH BEHAVIOR ISSUES
Dogs are pack animals and will often develop bad behaviors when lonely or bored. Be sure to spend plenty of quality time with your dog, playing, exercising, and teaching it commands. Make sure the dog has a stimulating environment with plenty of toys or playmates. Be realistic with your expectations: remember that he’s still a dog and he may have inbred qualities that are typical for his breed. Punishment for behavior issues usually does not work, as you must catch your dog in the act every time. Seek the cause of the behavior and adjust the dog’s environment accordingly. Find ways to reward his good behaviors to reinforce what you want him to do.

Barking: Your dog may be barking because he is lonely or bored, but he might also bark to protect his territory. You may need to teach him the “speak” and “quiet” or “no speak” commands so you can control his barking when you are around. If your dog barks at sounds he is afraid of, he might benefit from being left indoors with a radio or TV on.

Digging: Digging may be a form of play for your dog. Leave plenty of interesting toys for him to play with in the yard. Consider providing him with a special digging area where you don’t mind if he digs. Some dogs dig shallow holes to cool off in hot weather, so make sure he has proper shade or shelter and water. If your dog is digging to escape under the fence, be sure to adjust his environment to prevent escape (bury the fence under ground or place large rocks or obstacles along the fence line).

Escaping: Try to discover how and why your dog is escaping. Is he bored? ..lonely? ..afraid?.. sexually stimulated? Be sure your dog gets enough exercise with you by taking walks, playing, and fetching. When left alone, dogs spend lots of time resting even in the biggest of yards. Provide safe toys or playmates when you’re gone. Block views of parks or trails where more exciting events are happening. Spay or neuter your dog. Make your yard secure to prevent digging, climbing, or jumping to freedom.

Chewing: Like toddlers, dogs discover their world by putting things in their mouths. Be sure to teach them what is okay to chew. Provide your dog with plenty of appropriate and safe chew toys and limit his access to areas where too many non-toys are available. Train your dog to “drop it” in case he gets a hold of the wrong item. Help him release extra energy by playing and exercising with your dog.

INDOOR CATS LIVE LONGER AND STAY HEALTHIER
Unsupervised outdoor cats are often injured or killed by vehicles. Dogs and other cats may chase, attack, or kill your cat. Cats often become prey to fox, coyote, or mountain lions trying to survive in urban areas. Outdoor cats are more likely to be poisoned or exposed to diseases from neighboring animals. Not all people are kind to animals, so cats on the loose may be trapped, stolen, or purposely injured. Supervised visits outdoors or cat-proof enclosed outdoor areas can allow your cat a breath of fresh air. A stimulating environment indoors, with plenty of toys, scratching and climbing areas, quiet napping spots, and attention from you may help your felines enjoy a long healthy life.

SPAY AND NEUTER:
Spaying is the surgical procedure done on female animals and neutering is the surgical procedure performed on male animals. Both surgeries prevent pregnancy and resulting litters of offspring. Early neutering (by 6 months of age) of male dogs and cats prevents testicular cancer, prostate disease, and hernias. Neutered males are less likely to spray or mark territory and are less aggressive. Early spaying (before first heat cycle) nearly eliminates a female cat or dog’s chance of developing mammary tumors and uterine infections.

An unspayed female dog can have an average of 2 litters per year, with 6 to 10 puppies in each litter. She and her offspring could produce 67,000 dogs in 6 years. An unspayed female cat can produce an average of 3 litters of 7 to 10 kittens each per year, resulting in 420,000 cats in 7 years. Unwanted pets can quickly become an overwhelming problem. Fewer unwanted litters of cats and dogs allows the Humane Society to find homes for more of the pets already born and at the shelter.

I have something in my fire place/wall. Can you come remove it?
We do not handle the removal of animals from fireplaces or walls. Please call Alpine Animal Control at 719-636-1014.

I see a raccoon/ fox/deer running loose in my neighborhood. Will you come and get it?
These type of animals live in the city and do quite well. They are considered wildlife. We do not come out and trap them.

There is an injured deer in my yard or on the side of the road. Can you come and get it?
Deer are wildlife and that is something we do not handle. If the deer is up and mobile, we have been told by the Division of Wildlife to let mother nature take its course. Most deer will do well on 3 legs and do fine. If the deer is down and not moving, you can call the Division of Wildlife for help at 719-227-5200.

I am interested in a certain type of dog/cat. Can you put my name on a waiting list?
We do not have a waiting list for specific types of animals. Our inventory changes on a daily basis. We suggest that you come in at least once a week and see if the type of animal you are interested in is here.

Do you have any Labs, Cockers, Poodles, etc.?
Our inventory changes hourly with animals coming in and going out. It is impossible to keep an accurate list. Your best bet is to come in and take a look around to see if the type of animal you are interested in is here.

Is it illegal to own certain types of dogs or wolf-hybrids in the city?
At this time there are no restrictions as to what types of domestic animals that a person can own in Colorado Springs.

How much is it to adopt an animal?
Most cat adoption fees are $68.00 and most dogs are $88.00. Puppies and kittens have higher fees. This fee includes certificates that go toward the spay/neutering, rabies and distemper vaccinations, and for dogs, the license.

Is there a set time that animals are allowed to bark?
Per the City/County ordinance an animal is not allowed to bark and disturb the peace and quite of the neighborhood at any time, day or night. Please see our section under laws for a more in-depth description of the ordinance.

Who picks up dead animals on the streets?
The City/ County road department removes dead animals from the streets. Their phone numbers are; City 719-385-5934, County 719-520-6460.

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Living with a pet can be beneficial to children. Pets can enhance a child’s self-esteem, teach them responsibility and help them to learn empathy. However, children and dogs are not always going to automatically start off with a wonderful relationship. Parents must be willing to teach the dog and the child acceptable limits of behavior in order to make their interactions pleasant and safe.

Selecting A Dog

What age is best? Many people have a “warm fuzzy” image of a puppy and a child growing up together. If you have a young child and are thinking of adopting a puppy (less than 1 year old) there are a few things you need to consider.

Time and energy: Puppies require a lot of time, patience, training and supervision. They also require socialization in order to become well-adjusted adult dogs. This means they need to be taken places and exposed to new things and new people. If you have a young child who already requires a lot of care and time, will you have enough time to care for a puppy, as well?

Safety: Puppies, because they’re babies, are somewhat fragile creatures. A puppy may become frightened, or even injured, by a well-meaning, curious child who wants to constantly pick him up, hug him or explore his body by pulling on his tail or ears.

Rough play: Puppies have sharp teeth and claws with which they may inadvertently injure a small child. Puppies also tend to jump up on small children and knock them down. All interactions between your child and puppy will need to be closely supervised in order to minimize the chances of either being injured.

Advantages of getting an adult dog: Adult dogs require less time and attention once they’ve adjusted to your family and household routine, although you’ll still need to spend time helping your new dog with the transtion to his new home. You can better gauge how hardy and tolerant an adult dog will be of childish enthusiasm and you can work with your local animal shelter to adopt a dog with a history of getting along well with children.

What breed is best? Although some general statements can be made about specific dog breeds, the characteristics of an individual dog are just as important as a dog’s breed.

Size: Small breeds of dogs, such as toy or miniature poodles, chihuahuas or cocker spaniels, may not be good choices for a young child. These small breed dogs are more easily injured than larger dogs and may be more easily frightened by a lot of activity, loud noises and by being picked up and fondled frequently. Frightened dogs tend to snap or bite in order to protect themselves. Larger dogs may be better able to tolerate the activity, noise and rough play that is an inevitable part of living with children.

Breed type: Some of the sporting breeds, such as labradors and golden retrievers, make good pets for families with children. Breeds that have been selected for protective behavior, such as chows and rottweilers, may not be as good for families with children. It’s sometimes difficult for this type of dog to comfortably tolerate the many comings and goings of children and their friends, who may be perceived as territorial intruders. Herding breeds are inclined to “herd” children, chasing and nipping at their heels.

Who Will Care For The Dog?

It’s unrealistic to expect a child, regardless of age, to have sole responsibility for caring for a dog. Not only do dogs need basic things like food, water and shelter, they also need to be played with, exercised and trained on a consistent basis. Teaching a dog the rules of the house and helping him become a good companion is too overwhelming a task for a young child. While responsible teenagers may be up to the task, they may not be willing to spend an adequate amount of time with the dog, as their desire to be with their friends usually takes over at this age. If you’re adopting a dog “for the kids,” you must be prepared and willing to be the dog’s primary caretaker.

Starting Off Right

Following are some guidelines to help you start off on the right foot. Remember, small children should never be left alone with a dog or puppy without adult supervision.

Holding:

It’s safest for both your child and puppy if your child is sitting down whenever he wants to hold the puppy. Puppies are squirmy and wiggly and may easily fall out of a young child’s arms and be injured. If held insecurely, a puppy may become frightened and snap or scratch in response. After your child is sitting, you can place the puppy in his arms.

Have your child offer the puppy a chew toy while he pets the puppy. When puppies are teething, they tend to chew on everything, including hands and arms, so having a chew toy handy will divert the puppy’s teeth away from your child. An added benefit is that the puppy will come to associate pleasant consequences (getting a treat) with being held by your child.

For larger dogs, have your child sit in your lap and let the dog approach both of you. This way you can control your child and not allow him to get “carried away” with pats that are too rough. You are also there to teach your new dog to treat your child gently.*

Petting and giving affection: Children often want to hug dogs around the neck. Your dog may view this as a threatening gesture, rather than an affectionate one, and may react with a growl, snap or bite. You should teach your child to pet your dog from underneath the dog’s chin, rather than hugging him or reaching over his head. You should also teach your child to avoid staring at, or looking directly into, your dog’s eyes.

Giving Treats: Children tend to become somewhat fearful and anxious when a dog tries to take a treat from their hand. This causes them to jerk their hand away at the last second. The dog may then jump up or lunge to get the treat which may result in the child being knocked down. Have your child place the treat in an open palm, rather than holding it in his fingers. You may want to place a hand underneath your child’s hand to help guide him.

Supervising Play: Children move with quick, jerky movements, have high-pitched voices and often run, rather than walk. All of these behaviors somewhat resemble the behavior of prey animals. Almost all of a dog’s play behaviors are based on predatory behavior. Consequently, your dog may respond to your child’s behavior by chasing him, nipping at his heels, jumping up at him or even trying to knock him down.

At first, your child may need to play quietly around your new dog until he becomes more comfortable and calm and your child has gained more control over the dog. Your dog must also learn that certain behaviors on his part are unacceptable, but he must also be taught what behaviors are the right ones. Most children under the age of 10 are not capable of carrying out these procedures, so it’s helpful to teach your dog a “leave it” command that you can use when play gets too rough. Taking an obedience class together is a good way to teach your dog to respond to commands.

An approach that is not helpful is to punish your dog for his behavior. If he learns that being around children always results in “bad things” happening to him, he may become defensive in their presence.

Possessions: Your dog won’t know the difference between his toys and your child’s toys until you teach him.

Your child must take responsibility for keeping his playthings out of your dog’s reach.

If, and only if, you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then give him an acceptable chew toy and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.

Don’t give your dog objects to play with such as old socks, old shoes or old children’s toys that closely resemble items that are off-limits. They can’t tell the difference!

Dogs can be possessive about their food, toys and space. Although it’s normal for a dog to growl or snap to protect these items, it’s not acceptable. At the same time, children need to learn to respect their dog as a living creature who is not to be teased or purposefully hurt and who needs time to himself .

If your dog is growling or snapping at your child for any reason, the situation needs IMMEDIATE attention. Punishing your dog is likely to make matters worse.
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Housetraining Your Puppy

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Housetraining a puppy requires time, vigilance, patience and commitment. Following the procedures outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every puppy will have an accident in the house (more likely several). Expect this – it’s part of raising a puppy. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.

Establish A Routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. Take your puppy outside frequently, at least every 2 hours, and immediately after he wakes up from a nap, after playing and after eating.

Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors. You can even give him a treat. You must praise him and give him a treat immediately after he’s finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he’ll know that’s what you want him to do.

Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot. Always take your puppy, on a leash, directly to the bathroom spot. Take him for a walk or play with him only after he has eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like “go potty,” that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him of what he’s supposed to be doing.

If possible, put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed 3 or 4 times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he’ll eliminate at consistent times as well. This makes housetraining easier for both of you.

Supervise, Supervise, Supervise

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house. He should be watched at all times when he is indoors. You can tether him to you with a 6-foot leash, or use baby gates, to keep him in the room where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately take him outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

Confinement

When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won’t want to eliminate there. It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down and turn around in. This area could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room, blocked off with boxes or baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him. If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, when you let him out, take him directly to his bathroom spot and praise him when he eliminates.

Oops!

Expect your puppy to have an accident in the house – it’s a normal part of housetraining a puppy.

When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.

Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment or discipline, will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.

Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

It’s extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he’ll get confused about where he’s supposed to eliminate which will prolong the housetraining process.

Paper Training

A puppy under 6 months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home for more than 4 or 5 hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. If you’re already committed to having a puppy and have to be away from home for long periods of time, you’ll need to train your puppy to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of teaching him to eliminate outdoors. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that he may, even in adulthood, eliminate on any newspaper he finds lying around the house.

When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate. In the area designated as the elimination place, you can either use newspapers or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container, like a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at a pet supply store. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels, and put them in the designated elimination place. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

Other Types Of House-Soiling Problems

If you’ve consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior.

Medical Problems: House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.

Submissive/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings, intense play or when they’re about to be punished.

Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded.

Separation Anxiety. Dogs that become anxious when they’re left alone may house soil as a result. Usually, there are other symptoms, such as destructive behavior or vocalization.

Fears Or Phobias. When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil when he’s exposed to these sounds.

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Solving Litter Box Problems

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Cats tend to have surface and location preferences for where, and on what, they like to eliminate. Most cats prefer a loose, sandy substance, which is why they will use a litter box. It’s only when their preferences include the laundry basket, the bed or the Persian rug, that normal elimination behavior becomes a problem. With careful analysis of your cat’s environment, specific factors that have contributed to the litter box problem can usually be identified and changed, so that your cat will again use the litter box for elimination.

Some common reasons why cats don’t use the litter box are: an aversion to the box, a preference for a particular surface not provided by the box, a preference for a particular location where there is no box, or a combination of all 3. You’ll need to do some detective work to determine the reason your cat is house soiling. Sometimes, the reason the litter box problem initially started may not be the same reason it’s continuing. For example, your cat may have stopped using the litter box because of a urinary tract infection, and has now developed a surface preference for carpet and a location preference for the bedroom closet. You would need to address all 3 of these factors in order to resolve the problem.

Cats don’t stop using their litter boxes because they’re mad or upset and are trying to get revenge for something that “offended” or “angered” them. Because humans act for these reasons, it’s easy for us to assume that our pets do as well. Animals don’t act out of spite or revenge, so it won’t help to give your cat special privileges in the hope that she’ll start using the litter box again.

Medical Problems

It’s common for cats to begin eliminating outside of their litter box when they have a medical problem. For example, a urinary tract infection or crystals in the urine can make urination very painful. Cats often associate this pain with the litter box and begin to avoid it. If your cat has a house-soiling problem, check with your veterinarian first to rule out any medical problems for the behavior. Cats don’t always act sick, even when they are, and only a trip to the veterinarian for a thorough physical examination can rule out a medical problem.

Cleaning Soiled Areas

Because animals are highly motivated to continue soiling an area that smells like urine or feces, it’s imperative that you thoroughly clean the soiled areas.

Aversion To The Litter Box

Your cat may have decided that the litter box is an unpleasant place to eliminate if:

The box is not clean enough for her.

She has experienced painful urination or defecation in the box due to a medical problem.

She has been startled by a noise while using the box.

She has been “ambushed” while in the box either by another cat, a child, a dog, or by you, if you were attempting to catch her for some reason.

She associates the box with punishment (someone punished her for eliminating outside the box, then placed her in the box).

What You Can Do

Keep the litter box extremely clean. Scoop at least once a day and change the litter completely every 4 to 5 days. If you use scoopable litter, you may not need to change the litter as frequently. This will vary according to how many cats are in the household, how many litter boxes you have, and how large the cats are that are using the box or boxes. A good guideline is that if you can smell the box, then you can be sure it’s offensive to your cat as well.

Add a new box in a different location than the old one and use a different type of litter in the new box. Because your cat has decided that her old litter box is unpleasant, you’ll want to make the new one different enough that she doesn’t simply apply the old, negative associations to the new box.

Make sure that the litter box isn’t near an appliance that makes noise or in an area of the house that your cat doesn’t frequent.

If ambushing is a problem, try to create more than 1 exit from the litter box, so that if the “ambusher” is waiting by one area, your cat always has an escape route.

Surface Preferences

All animals develop preferences for a particular surface on which they like to eliminate. These preferences may be established early in life, but they may also change overnight for reasons that we don’t always understand. Your cat may have a surface preference if:

She consistently eliminates on a particular texture. For example, soft-textured surfaces, such as carpet, bedding or clothing, or slick-textured surfaces, such as tile, cement, bathtubs or sinks.

She frequently scratches on this same texture after elimination, even if she eliminates in the litter box.

She is or was previously an outdoor cat and prefers to eliminate on grass or soil.

What You Can Do

If your cat is eliminating on soft surfaces, try using a high quality, scoopable litter, and put a soft rug under the litter box.

If your cat is eliminating on slick, smooth surfaces, try putting just a very thin layer of litter at one end of the box, leaving the other end bare, and put the box on a hard floor.

If your cat has a history of being outdoors, add some soil or sod to the litter box.

Make the area where she has been eliminating aversive to her by covering it with an upside down carpet runner or aluminum foil, or by placing citrus-scented cotton balls over the area.

Location Preferences

Your cat may have a location preference if:

She always eliminates in quiet, protected places, such as under a desk, downstairs or in a closet.

She eliminates in an area where the litter box was previously kept or where there are urine odors.

She eliminates on a different level of the house from where the litter box is located.

What You Can Do

Put at least 1 litter box on every level of your house.

Make the area where she has been eliminating aversive to her by covering it with upside down carpet runner or aluminum foil, or by placing citrus-scented cotton balls over the area OR

Put a litter box in the location where your cat has been eliminating. When she has consistently used this box for at least 1 month, you may gradually move it to a more convenient location at a rate of an inch per day.

Oops!

If you catch your cat in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt her like making a startling noise, but be careful not to scare her. Immediately take her to where the litter box is located and set her on the floor. If she wanders over to the litter box, wait and praise her after she eliminates in the box. If she takes off in another direction, she may want privacy, so watch from afar until she goes back to the litter box and eliminates, then praise her when she does.

Don’t ever punish your cat for eliminating outside of the litter box. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your cat’s nose in it, taking her to the spot and scolding her, or any other type of punishment, will only make her afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.

Other Types Of House Soiling Problems

Fears Or Phobias: When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your cat is afraid of loud noises, strangers or other animals, she may house soil when she is exposed to these stimuli.

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Dealing With Normal Puppy Behavior: Chewing

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Puppies may be just as much work as human babies – maybe more so because puppies can’t wear diapers and they have very sharp teeth! It’s definitely true that, similar to infants and toddlers, puppies explore their world by putting things in their mouths. In addition, puppies are teething until they’re about 6 months old, which usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething, but also makes sore gums feel better. Although it’s perfectly normal for a puppy to chew on furniture, shoes, shrubbery and such, these behaviors can be a problem for you. A puppy won’t magically “outgrow” these behaviors as he matures. Instead, you must shape your puppy’s behaviors and teach him which ones are acceptable and which aren’t.

Discouraging Unacceptable Behavior

It’s virtually inevitable that your puppy will, at some point, chew up something you value. This is part of raising a puppy! You can, however, prevent most problems by taking the following precautions:

Minimize chewing problems by puppy-proofing your house. Put the trash out of reach, inside a cabinet or outside on a porch, or buy containers with locking lids. Encourage children to pick up their toys and don’t leave socks, shoes, eyeglasses, briefcases or TV remote controls lying around within your puppy’s reach.

If, and only if, you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then offer him an acceptable chew toy instead and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.

Make unacceptable chew items unpleasant to your puppy. Furniture and other items can be coated with “Bitter Apple” to make them unappealing.

Don’t give your puppy objects to play with such as old socks, old shoes or old children’s toys that closely resemble items that are off-limits. Puppies can’t tell the difference!

Closely supervise your puppy. Don’t give him the chance to go off by himself and get into trouble. Use baby gates, close doors or tether him to you with a 6-foot leash so you can keep an eye on him.

When you must be gone from the house, confine your puppy to a small, safe area such as a laundry room. You may also begin to crate train your puppy. Puppies under 5 months of age shouldn’t be crated for longer than 4 hours at a time, as they may not be able to control their bladder and bowels longer than that.

Make sure your puppy is getting adequate physical activity. Puppies left alone in a yard don’t play by themselves. Take your puppy for walks and/or play a game of fetch with him as often as possible.

Give your puppy plenty of “people time.” He can only learn the rules of your house when he’s with you.

Encouraging Acceptable Behavior

Rotate your puppy’s toys. Puppies, like babies, are often more interested in unfamiliar or novel objects. Put out 4 or 5 toys for a few days, then pick those up and put out 4 or 5 different ones.

Experiment with different kinds of toys. When you introduce a new toy to your puppy, watch him to make sure he won’t tear it up and ingest the pieces.

Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys focuses your puppy’s chewing activities on those toys instead of on unacceptable objects.

If your puppy is teething, try freezing a wet washcloth for him to chew on.

What Not To Do

Never discipline or punish your puppy after the fact. If you discover a chewed item even minutes after he’s chewed it, you’re too late to administer a correction. Animals associate punishment with what they’re doing at the time they’re being punished. A puppy can’t reason that, “I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that’s why I’m being scolded now.” Some people believe this is what a puppy is thinking because he runs and hides or because he “looks guilty.” “Guilty looks” are canine submissive postures that dogs show when they’re threatened. When you’re angry and upset, the puppy feels threatened by your tone of voice, body postures and/or facial expressions, so he may hide or show submissive postures. Punishment after-the-fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but could provoke other undesirable behaviors, as well.

Other Reasons For Destructive Behavior

In most cases, destructive chewing by puppies is nothing more than normal puppy behavior. Adult dogs, however, can exhibit destructive behaviors for a variety of reasons, which can occasionally be the cause of chewing problems in puppies, as well. Examples include separation anxiety, fear-related behaviors and attention-getting behavior.

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Nipping And Rough Play

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

When puppies play with each other, they use their mouths. Therefore, puppies usually want to bite or “mouth” hands during play or when being petted. With puppies, this is rarely aggressive behavior in which the intent is to do harm. Because puppies are highly motivated to exhibit this type of behavior, attempts to suppress it or stop it are unlikely to be successful unless you give your puppy an alternative behavior. The goals of working with this normal puppy behavior are to redirect your puppy’s desire to put something in her mouth onto acceptable chew toys and to teach her to be gentle when a hand is in her mouth.

Encourage Acceptable Behavior

Redirect your puppy’s chewing onto acceptable objects by offering her a small rawhide chew bone or other type of chew toy whenever you pet her. This technique can be especially effective when children want to pet her. As you or the child reach out to scratch her behind the ears (not over the head) with 1 hand, offer the chew bone with the other. This will not only help your puppy learn that people and petting are wonderful, but will also keep her mouth busy while she’s being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and which 1 has the chew bone. At first, you may need to pet or scratch your puppy for short periods of time, since the longer she’s petted, the more likely she is to get excited and start to nip.

Discourage Unacceptable Behavior

You must also teach your puppy to be gentle with hands, and that nipping results in unpleasant consequences for her. Teach your puppy that nipping “turns off” any attention and social interaction with you. After a nip, look your puppy right in the eye, and yell “OUCH” as though you’ve been mortally wounded, then ignore her. Leave the room if you must, but ignore her until she’s calm, then try the chew bone and petting method again. It’s even better if you can coax your puppy into a sitting position using food. It may take many repetitions for her to understand what’s expected.

Nipping and mouthing hands can also be discouraged by loosely holding your puppy’s lower jaw between your thumb and forefinger after she’s taken your hand in her mouth. Don’t hurt her by squeezing too hard, just gently hang on so that wherever her mouth goes, your hand hangs on. This will quickly become tiresome and she’ll eventually pull away. After several seconds, release her jaw, but continue to offer her your hand. If she licks or ignores it, praise, pet and offer a tidbit. If she closes her mouth on your hand again, repeat the procedure.

A third alternative is to wear cotton gloves coated with a substance with an unpleasant taste such as “Bitter Apple.” In this way, your puppy will learn that “hands in mouth taste bad.” For this method to work, every time she nips your hand she must experience this bad taste. The possible disadvantage to this method is that your puppy may learn “hands with gloves taste bad and those without gloves don’t.”

Remember that any of these 3 methods will probably not be effective unless you work hard to teach your puppy the right behavior by offering her an acceptable chew toy.

Jumping Up

When your puppy jumps up on you, she wants attention. Whether you push her away, knee her in the chest or step on her hind legs, she’s being rewarded for jumping up (even though it’s negative attention, she’s still getting what she wants).

When your puppy jumps up:

Fold your arms in front of you, turn away from her and say “off.”

Continue to turn away from her until all 4 of her feet are on the ground, then quietly praise her and give her a treat. If she knows the “sit” command, give the command when all 4 of her feet are on the ground, then quietly praise her and give her a treat her while she’s in the sitting position.

When you begin to praise her, if she begins to jump up again, simply turn away and repeat step 2, above. Remember to keep your praise low-key.

When your puppy realizes that she gets no attention from you while she’s jumping up, but does get attention when she stops jumping up and sits, she’ll stop jumping up. Remember, once you’ve taught her to come and sit quietly for attention, you must reward her behavior. Be careful not to ignore her when she comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention.

What Not To Do

Attempts to tap, slap or hit your puppy in the face for nipping or jumping up are almost guaranteed to backfire. Several things may happen, depending on your puppy’s temperament and the severity of the correction:

She could become “hand-shy” and cringe or cower whenever a hand comes toward her face.

She could become afraid of you and refuse to come to you or approach you at all.

She could respond in a defensive manner and attempt to bite you to defend herself.

She could interpret a mild slap as an invitation to play, causing her to become more excited and even more likely to nip.

Never play “tug-of-war” or wrestling games with your puppy if you’re having a nipping problem. These types of games encourage out-of-control behavior, grabbing, lunging and competition with you. These aren’t behaviors you want her to learn.

A Note About Children And Puppies

It’s very difficult for children under 8 or 9 years old to practice the kind of behavior modification outlined here. Children’s first reaction to being nipped or mouthed by a puppy is to push the puppy away with their hands and arms. This will be interpreted by the puppy as play and will probably cause the puppy to nip and mouth even more. Dogs should never be left alone with children under 10 and parents should monitor closely all interactions between their children and dogs.

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Cats: Destructive Scratching

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Why Do Cats Scratch?

It’s normal for cats to scratch objects in their environment for many reasons:

To remove the dead outer layer of their claws.

To mark their territory by leaving both a visual mark and a scent – they have scent glands on their paws.

To stretch their bodies and flex their feet and claws.

To work off energy.

Because scratching is a normal behavior, and 1 that cats are highly motivated to display, it’s unrealistic to try to prevent them from scratching. Instead, the goal in resolving scratching problems is to redirect the scratching onto acceptable objects.

Training Your Cat To Scratch Acceptable Objects

1. You must provide objects for scratching that are appealing, attractive and convenient from your cat’s point of view. Start by observing the physical features of the objects your cat is scratching. The answers to the following questions will help you understand your cat’s scratching preferences:

Where are they located? Prominent objects, objects close to sleeping areas and areas near the entrance to a room are often chosen.

What texture do they have – are they soft or coarse?

What shape do they have – are they horizontal or vertical?

How tall are they? At what height does your cat scratch?

2. Now, considering your cat’s demonstrated preferences, substitute similar objects for her to scratch (rope-wrapped posts, corrugated cardboard or even a log). Place the acceptable object(s) near the inappropriate object(s) that she’s already using. Make sure the objects are stable and won’t fall over or move around when she uses them.

3. Cover the inappropriate objects with something your cat will find unappealing, such as double sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper or a plastic carpet runner with the pointy side up. Or you may give the objects an aversive odor by attaching cotton balls containing perfume, a muscle rub or other unpleasant odor. Be careful with odors, though, because you don’t want the nearby acceptable objects to also smell unpleasant.

4. When your cat is consistently using the appropriate object, it can be moved very gradually (no more than 3 inches each day) to a location more suitable to you. It’s best, however, to keep the appropriate scratching objects as close to your cat’s preferred scratching locations as possible.

5. Don’t remove the unappealing coverings or odors from the inappropriate objects until your cat is consistently using the appropriate objects in their permanent locations for several weeks, or even a month. They should then be removed gradually, not all at once.

Should I Punish My Cat For Scratching?

NO! Punishment is effective only if you catch your cat in the act of scratching unacceptable objects and have provided her with acceptable scratching objects. Punishment after the fact, won’t change the behavior, may cause her to be afraid of you or the environment and may elicit defensive aggression. Used by itself, punishment won’t resolve scratching problems because it doesn’t teach your cat where to scratch instead. If you do catch her in the act of scratching inappropriate objects, remote punishment is best, in which you do not directly interact with her. Ideas for remote punishment include making a loud noise (using a whistle, shaking a pop can filled with rocks or slapping the wall), throwing a pillow at her or using a water-filled squirt bottle. If punishment is interactive, she’ll learn to refrain from scratching in your presence but will continue to scratch when you’re not around.

How Do I Trim My Cat’s Claws?

To help keep them sharp, cats keep their claws retracted except when they’re needed. As the claws grow too long and become curved, they can’t be retracted completely. You should clip off the sharp tips of your cat’s claws on all 4 feet every week or so. Clipping your cat’s claws will also help prevent them from becoming snagged in carpets, fabrics and skin.

Before trimming your cat’s claws, accustom her to having her paws handled and squeezed. You can do this by gently petting her legs and paws while giving her a treat. This will help to make it a more pleasant experience. Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes gentle squeezing, as you’ll need to do this to extend the claw. Continue with the treats until your cat tolerates this kind of touching and restraint. It may take a little longer if she’s not used to having her legs or paws handled.

Apply a small amount of pressure to her paw, with your thumb on top of her paw and your index finger underneath, until a claw is extended. You should be able to see the pink or “quick,” which is a small blood vessel. Don’t cut into this pink portion, as it will bleed and be painful for your cat. If you cut off just the sharp tip of the claw, the “hook,” it will dull the claw and prevent extensive damage to household objects and to your skin.

There are several types of claw trimmers designed especially for pets. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won’t crush the claw. Until you and your cat have become accustomed to the routine, 1 foot a day is enough of a challenge. Don’t push to do all 4 at once, or you’ll both have only negative memories of claw clippers!

Should I Declaw My Cat?

We strongly discourage cat owners from having their cats declawed. Scratching is a natural behavior for cats and can be directed to appropriate items. However, if you feel that you must either declaw or give up your cat, we would rather see your cat stay in her home and be your lifelong companion. If you do decide to have your cat declawed, we suggest* you have the surgery done at the same time she’s spayed (or neutered if your cat is a male), that you only declaw the front paws and that you always keep your cat indoors.

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Inside Or Out? – Making Your Dog Part Of The Family

Copyright Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Some dog owners believe that dogs, especially large ones, should be “outdoor only” pets. At the Humane Society of the PIkes Peak Region, we believe that dogs of all sizes are happier, healthier and safer when they can be indoors with their people the majority of the time. Dogs have a need to be social just like we do.

Exercise

Some people believe that dogs need to be outside so they can get plenty of exercise. The truth is that most dogs don’t exercise when they’re in a yard by themselves; they spend most of their time lying by the back door, waiting for “their people” to either let them in or come out and play with them. However, dogs do need exercise every day, so we recommend walking your dog or engaging him in a regular game of fetch!

Socialization

Dogs need to spend time with “their people” in order to learn their rules and how to get along with them. Dogs that spend most of their time alone or only in the company of other dogs may demonstrate fearful, aggressive or overactive behavior toward family members or strangers because they’ve never learned how to act around people.

Safety

Dogs that spend most of their time outdoors are at risk for a variety of reasons. They could escape from the yard and become lost; a disgruntled neighbor could throw poison over the fence or spray the dog with mace or pepper spray; or the dog could be stolen and possibly sold to a research facility or dog-fighting ring.

Behavior Problems

Dogs left alone in the yard for long periods of time often get bored, lonely and frustrated. As a result, they may dig or bark excessively. Most cities have noise ordinances that penalize owners of barking dogs. If a dog escapes the yard in search of interesting things to do, not only is he at risk of being injured by a car, but his owner is liable for any damage or harm that he might do.

Protection

Dogs that spend time with their owners and feel attached to them are more likely to be protective of “their family.” Dogs that spend most of their time outdoors may be friendly to any stranger who pets or feeds them. Alternatively, some yard dogs may become overly territorial and feel the need to protect their territory even from family and friends. If a dog is hardly ever allowed to come indoors, it will be difficult for him to distinguish between family, friends and uninvited “guests.”

Puppies

People who are away from home for 8 to 10 hours a day may be inclined to leave their new puppy in the yard because he can’t control his bowels and bladder for that length of time. Although it’s true that puppies need to eliminate more frequently than adult dogs, it’s also very important for puppies to receive adequate people time at this formative stage of their lives. If dogs aren’t adequately socialized when they’re young, they’re likely to become fearful or aggressive toward people, and possibly other animals. Puppies are also more vulnerable to extreme weather conditions than adult dogs. If you must be away from home for more than 4 or 5 hours at a time every day, this may not be the right time for you to adopt a puppy.

The Garage

While dogs may be safer in the garage than in the yard, unless people spend time with them in the garage, they’ll still suffer from isolation and, as a result, may develop any of the behavior problems previously mentioned. Most garages are very hot during the summer months and cold during the winter. Garages are often storage places for tools and chemicals that could cause injury to a curious dog. If the garage has an automatic door opener, the dog could run out into the street when the door is opened.

Changing Times

Some of us may have fond childhood memories of a family dog that lived outside, but times have changed. More mothers used to stay at home and children used to spend more time outdoors. The outdoor dog had company while mom hung laundry or gardened and the children played outside. With the advent of 2-income families, television and computer games, the outdoor dog is more likely to spend most of his time alone.

No Alternative

If you must leave your dog outdoors, unsupervised for extended periods of time, please provide him with the following:

An insulated shelter with a wind-proof opening. Some very short-coated breeds like greyhounds, beagles and labs, may not be able to tolerate extreme cold, even with a shelter.

Shade in the summertime. All dogs need shade, but remember that heavy-coated dogs, such as huskies and chows, are more susceptible to the heat.

Fresh food and water every day. In winter, you’ll need a heated water bowl to keep the water from freezing. In summer, you’ll need a tip-proof bowl so your dog won’t tip the bowl over in an effort to get cool.

Interactive play time daily.

A daily walk.

An escape-proof fence with a locked gate.

Most dogs do enjoy spending time outdoors, but the time dogs spend alone outdoors must be balanced with quality time with “their people.” With a little time and training, dogs can learn to be well-behaved around people and can come to respect the house rules. They can then be left inside alone without cause for worry and be trusted companions and members of the family

Teachers may borrow videos that reinforce lessons on animals in our ecosystem, the fun and responsibility of pet ownership, bite safety, or compassion and the humane movement.
Curriculum activities, books and ideas are available to expand current classroom studies.

If you are interested in a tour, please give us a call and set up a time to see our unique facility. Call 719-473-1741 ext. 139.

Humane Means Kind (Preschool – 1st grade) addresses CO Standard: Science 3.1
Animals are alive and deserve our respect. Students learn kind and safe ways to enjoy animals by interacting with Humane Society pets.

Safety Around Animals (1st – 4th grade) addresses CO standard: Science 3.1, Health 3.0
Young children are frequent victims of dog attacks. By practicing safety procedures, children become more aware of how animals communicate and how to protect themselves during an encounter.

Wild or Domesticated? (2nd – 3rd grade) addresses CO standard: Science 3.1, Reading/Writing 4.1
Why don’t hummingbirds make good pets? Through stories and games, children learn the difference between pets and wild animals and how they can “love” all life.

Responsible Pet Care (2nd – 6th grade) addresses CO standard: Science 3.1
Pets are depending on us to enjoy a good life. Stuffed animals entice students to remember all pets’ needs, while reminding them what fun they can be!

Pet Overpopulation (3rd – 6th grade) addresses CO standard: Science 3.1, Math 2.3
Too many pets exist without enough good homes. Children join in a skit to help visualize how pet overpopulation occurs, while working on solutions.

CITY LAW:
It shall be unlawful for any person to own or keep any animals, which attacks or threatens to attack any person. Such animal is declared to be dangerous and nuisance and may be impounded or confined. (6-7-108)

STATE LAW:
The 18-9-204.5 statute deals with unlawful ownership of dangerous dogs. (Excerpt) The General Assembly hereby finds, determines, and declares that dangerous dogs are a serious and widespread threat to the safety and welfare of citizens throughout the state because of the number and serious nature of attacks by such dogs.